Fortunately, when they’re a puppy in their formative years, you can promote lifelong good behavior and curb undesirable traits so you two — and the rest of the items in your home — have a happy life together.

Ultimately, you’ll want to teach your pet some basic cues and establish a solid foundation early on. Luckily, you can begin teaching good manners and all the basics in training sessions as soon as you bring your pup home, usually at eight weeks old.

Why Train at All

Well, first and foremost, puppy training when your pooch is young reduces stress for you and them. They’ll understand the behaviors to exhibit and know the ones to avoid. You’ll prevent accidents inside the home and keep your furniture intact. You can also prevent an incident with your pet being more ‘jumpy’ than it should be toward the company. 

Though it’s a dog’s instinct to bark, especially when they want to alert you of a potential danger, you can teach them the appropriate times to voice their opinion. This is especially the case since they may bark when they want your attention, which may be more prevalent when they’re not mentally or physically engaged. Through training, your puppy can learn when an appropriate time is to bark, so as not to disrupt your household or bother your neighbors.

Puppy training when your doggo is young will make it easier for them to handle as they grow. And if you plan on taking your pet places, whether to parks, on car rides, trips, etc., you’ll find your pet will be more manageable with the proper training. Furthermore, they’ll exhibit positive behaviors and be well socialized so bringing them places is joyous for you, them, and anyone else around, including other canines.

Why Train When They’re Young

For one, the puppy years are fun to watch, as your little ball of fur tackles new tasks and learns new things. However, they’re full of energy, possibly teething (depending on their age), potty training, and learning through play. Sometimes, this spells out disaster for your home, and if they’re a barker, it may mean quite a bit of noise and chaos. 

You obviously want to adjust problematic behaviors early accordingly to keep items in your home safe, prevent your rambunctious little guy or girl from jumping on everyone, and ensure the nuisance noises remain at a minimum. You’re also helping them exhibit desirable behaviors for the rest of their lives, which helps to make your bond with them strong. 

Besides intervening early for the sake of you and them, mentally, there’s a reason to train young. Your pup’s brain is wired to absorb a wealth of knowledge at this stage. At this point in their lives, their brains can form new connections quickly and rapidly, making it a prime time to teach them good behaviors and tricks.

Though genetics plays a role, certain aspects of their personality and temperament develop when they’re young. As a result, getting them socialized, used to being alone, and emotionally resilient overall best happens when they’re in the first year of life.

Some Training Tips

With so many things on your checklist to teach your pet, you may not know where to begin. These are some tips to help you get started:

Potty Training 

Pet urine soaks into hardwood, and the smell is difficult to get rid of in carpeting, so it’s important to start potty training ASAP, right after you bring your little barking bundle of joy home. Take them outside or to the potty pad, ideally every three hours. Schedule potty breaks after they eat meals or drink a great deal, once they wake up, and right before bed.

After every time they make potty on the pad or outside, reward them with one of the following:

• A small low-calorie treat, like store-bought treats, baby carrots, homemade peanut butter bites, or low-fat and low-sodium cheese (in moderation) 
• Pets and praise
• Playtime

Understand the signs your pet has to go to the bathroom to help them prevent accidents, such as:

• Sniffing the floor, looking for a place to go
• Pacing
• Walking in circles to find a spot

These are times to interrupt and take them outside or to the pad.

Once they get accustomed to the routine, you may notice other signs, including:

• Barking or whimpering
• Standing near the door
• Restlessness/anxiety

Try to have a feeding schedule when potty training, so they regulate their digestive tract, and you can establish a bathroom schedule easier. Avoid overnight accidents when they’re potty training by picking up their water dish about two hours before bed.

Moreover, never punish your pup for accidents because this can worsen the problem. Instead, reward the good to help them learn.

Crate Training

If you plan on crate training Fido as part of your puppy training, purchase a crate large enough for them to stand up, turn around, and lie in comfortably. Ensure the crate is a comfortable, non-boring place for them to remain by placing a bed or blanket down first and adding some toys.

When you first start crate training, let your pooch explore it at their leisure. Leave it open or remove the crate door. Let them enter and exit, sniff around, and possibly even lay on the comfy bed. Never rush the process, or they could associate negative feelings with it.

If they’re uninterested in the crate, lure them in with puppy treats. But, never close the door instantly. Instead, give them time.

Once your pup is in the crate and has had time to acclimate, give your pooch some positive reinforcement. After you let them out of the crate when they’re using it regularly, go for a walk with them so they have an opportunity to stretch and take a potty break, and they have something to look forward to after they get out of the crate.

Calming Barking

Some breeds are known for being more talkative than others. However, you don’t have to invest in earplugs to enjoy some peace because you have a barker on your hands. Instead, ignore any barking that’s solely for attention. Once they stop barking for a few seconds, give them pets to reinforce the good behavior. 

Moreover, it helps to train them to bark first, so they recognize what one is. Afterward, you can teach them “No bark.” Then, after they understand this, you can use that command to stop unwanted barking.

Also, keep your pooch occupied throughout the day, which will reduce barking episodes. They have your attention and won’t pay mind to stimuli around or outside that could trigger a barking spell.

Teaching Them Impulse Control

Teaching them no is the first step to your puppy learning impulse control. You’ll find no doesn’t mean no to them at first. You can teach this through positive reinforcement, though.

First, hold out your hand in front of them with a treat in it, and then tell them no whenever they try to get the snack. You’ll want to continue keeping them away from the treat at first. Practice this exercise a few times per training session until they’re no longer so overly excited.

As your puppy learns to resist, reward them with the treat. You’ll want to gradually increase to longer periods between displaying the treat and giving it to them.

Teaching Them Social Skills

If you plan to take your pet for walks around the neighborhood, the park, or anywhere they may encounter other dogs, early socialization is a necessity. However many weeks old they are now is the right age to start having them make new friends.

At these play sessions, you’ll want to train your new puppy to be around other pooches safely. Start with a pup you know who socializes well and is already well-adjusted.

Have the playdate in an open room or outdoor space. Preferably, you don’t want to plan the visit in your pup’s own home or the other dog’s house, so there are no territory issues between the puppies.

Because your pup will be at a disadvantage in a new environment, you’ll want to wait until they’ve been in public spaces already, so you don’t overwhelm them. Moreover, schedule any socialization after nap times so your pup is well rested.

Be certain the other dog you’re having your pet meet is fully vaccinated, and your pet has all their shots for their age. If you don’t know of any dogs that meet this criterion, opt for puppy group classes that require all pups to have their immunizations before participating.

Keep your pup on a leash during any meet and greets. Introduce the pets slowly and give them time to sniff and get to know one another. If the interaction gets aggressive, use the leash to pull your pup back from the situation. Each pet needs its own chew toys or other playthings to keep its mind occupied if the meeting derails. They can then work on parallel play.

These are the basics of puppy training, but you may find other areas you may want to focus on, such as having a complete daily schedule. In addition to any of the basic manners and commands you teach, you may want to opt for private lessons if you’re not having much success with positive reinforcement training and general obedience training.

Frequently Asked Questions About Puppy Training

We heard your questions about puppy training and would like to provide some insight.

What is the first thing you should train your puppy?

While there are various basic commands you should teach as well as getting them on a potty training schedule, start small. Teach your puppy to love their new home and that it’s a safe space for them.

Socialization may be one of the firsts. Specifically, if you have other dogs, you’ll want to introduce them to your new puppy, one at a time, after a few days to a week of your new addition moving in. Another first of training you may want to concentrate on is their separation anxiety, if they have any, so they’re not stressed whenever you leave the house.

What is a good age to start training a puppy?

Regarding puppy training, the general rule is it’s never too early to start. Therefore, as soon as you bring them home, begin dog training.

What are the 5 commands for puppy training?

You may have a lengthy list of what you want to teach your new pet, but the main ones to focus on include:

• No
• Their name (come when they’re called)
• Sit
• Stay
• Bark/no bark

What is a good schedule for a 12-week-old puppy?

Generally, you want to take your new pup out for potty training every three hours. Feed them twice daily, once in the morning and once at night. Aim for the same times each day to benefit your pup’s potty schedule.

Furthermore, keep your puppy engaged throughout the day to help them sleep at night. A young dog will have trouble sleeping in distracting environments, so create a calm environment at night for them before bedtime, allowing them to learn nighttime is for sleep.

The following are a few helpful tips I share with my Los Angeles dog training clients to help you resolve your excessive dog barking problems too.

1) Dogs Should take a “Wait and See” Approach to Life

I find a large percentage of problem barking is directed at humans in attempts to “seek” something they need from their two legged counterparts. Although many people find this cute or think it is good that “they are telling me what they need…” This is not a good thing at all and a major cause of anxiety and excessive dog barking in the cases I see. As I tell all of my clients, you are good at taking care of your dog and providing what they need in the appropriate time frame necessary. Whether is be food, attention, or to be let out, unless there is a medical emergency, a dog should NEVER feel responsible for dictating the next event or action that occurs between them and humans. It empowers them to be responsible for a situation that is beyond overwhelming for them to handle. Our world is far too complicated for them to feel responsible for even the most basic of transactions. Yet, will find great contentment in patiently waiting for all their needs to be accommodated in our time frame as we dictate.

2) Give Your Dog a Job

Many dogs who are our pets were genetically made to work and are highly driven. On their own, they can easily become bored or simply not know what to do when our fast paced lives are going on around them. By created structured tasks vis basic commands while you are doing your chores, family gatherings, and other transitional times, it simulates the essence of what dogs first did alongside early man. To take direction from humans as we take care of our human business.

3) Physical Exercise

Exercise helps release physical energy, gives a dog the chance to feel free, and releases endorphins into their systems to help them feel more balanced overall reducing their need for excessive dog barking. Every healthy dog should have a regular exercise regiment in place. Even out of shape or senior dogs can benefit from daily walks and the occasion run. I offer k9 personal training sessions even for my clients in Los Angeles and Hollywood.

4) Mental Exercise

Like physical energy, mental energy needs and outlet too. By providing a daily training regiment that challenges a dog’s mind and develops single pointed focus as described in #2, releases a great deal of thinking energy that drives the overthinking which leads to problem behaviors.

5) Socialization

Some dogs get frustrated from not being around their own kind. Although they do not need to live at the dog park, it gives them a sense of purpose and validation to see that they are not the only ones i the world who walk on all fours and pee outside.

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer and author based in L.A. with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles / San Fernando Valley area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com  email: dogtrainingla@gmail.com and check out his Yelp Dog Training Reviews.

All living things need food to survive. When the instinct to be satiated of hunger is relieved by eating, the brain tells the organism to feel satisfied. A small release of a neurochemical called dopamine is released to the pleasure sensor of the brain when this happens. This chemical creates the feelings we associate with being satisfied or in bliss after a good meal! this feeling also tells you that you do not need to eat anymore until the next feeling of hunger reappears and needs to be relieved once again. What can happen in dogs (us too) though, is that this subtle “pleasure reward” becomes too needy and inappropriately makes them feel as if they need more food. Even though they are nutritionally content. This can be because a dog is a natural “food hound” and need to learn how to see food as something they do not need 24-7. Or they are conditioned gradually over time by incorrect feeding practices and like many unbalances in dogs, are a product of human interference.

When it comes to training, treats have to be used and delivered appropriately. For the most part as a foundation to teach new concepts or commands or when training a young puppy new life skills. Once used as a foundation however, a dog must quickly learn that your commands or requests in life are what matters most to get everything provided. Not just because you have a treat. As needed and decided by you. This means they are not selective in listening just because you have something that gives them their “fix”. Hardly! It actually means they respect that whatever their opinions are in any circumstance, your decisions (training commands, requests, good behavior, etc) matter most in any situation you may encounter together.

If the relationship you establish with your dog is based on understanding and projecting the right energy, commands, once taught correctly, should apply anytime you ask. Not just when the treat pouch is worn. The following are

Twelve Steps To Ending Your Dog’s Treat Addiction:

• Admit that you only can get your dog to listen when a treat is present and your willingness to change that.
• Came to understand that a dog’s natural instincts of communication are more powerful than a piece of kibble or operant conditioning on their own.
• Made a decision to learn how to rethink how we perceive our pets and learn a better way of communicating with them.
• Took a true inventory of our dog’s training strengths and weaknesses.
• Admitted we were not wrong for our actions, but misinformed by the countless misinterpretations out there when it comes to truly understand how dogs perceive reality.
• Become ready to commit to your dog’s rehabilitation of treat reliance.
• Humbly allow nature to guide us in learning to understand our dogs.
• Make a list of all the times our dogs only listened because we had a treat and work on ways to change it.
• Make sure we accommodate all of our dog’s needs (exercise, training, affection, nutrition, socialization) so they are most likely to respond to our requests.
• Continue to work on improving our dog’s abilities to listen to us in all of life’s situations even after they have overcome their treat addiction.
• Become aware of the forces of energy, morphic fields, projection, and other concepts not always at the forefront of our everyday thought. It is for your dog.
• Having realized the benefits of communicating, and not just training your dog, I will spread the message of a dog’s pure view and way of interacting with the world to dog owners and dog parks everywhere!

I intentionally named this article teething, chewing, and biting. I use these terms since they are the most common words people use to describe the act of a puppy or in some cases adult dogs putting their mouth on skin, clothing, furniture, leashes, rugs, etc. The goal of this article is to help promote awareness of what these behaviors actually mean and how to address them.

Why do Dogs use their Mouths?

A dogs mouth is the most important part of its body. Not only do they use their mouths to eat and hunt, but it also acts as their hands, means of communicating, and way to modulate the energy of other members of their pack in efforts to remain order and balance. Because of the numerous contexts a dog or puppy can use their mouths it is very important to recognize the motivation behind the action before we are quick to write it off as “puppy teething” or “just what our dog likes to do when playing…” Unfortunately I hear dog owners report that their veterinarian explained how their puppy is” biting on their hands and clothing because they are simply teething.” This is not true. Since the mouthing is directed towards humans at times when the puppy becomes over stimulated, it is based more on communication, sensory modulation, and the actual relationship we share with our dogs. Whereas true puppy teething is actually something directed towards inanimate objects like bones, toys, and at times your furniture when the need to seethe their new and growing teeth arises. Although these behaviors can seem identical when taken out of context, it is very clear that when a dog directs their mouthiness towards us, there is a lot more meaning behind it than just random chewing as a pastime.

Hands and Pant legs?

We usually do not think about these two items in the same sentence. So why do dogs who have a gusto for mouthing seem to direct it mostly towards our hands and ankles? This comes back to how dogs naturally communicate. If you ever see dogs playing they are constantly nipping at each other’s ears and hindquarters. There is a distinct reason for this. They are not randomly biting at each other without purpose. They are doing a dance of sorts in efforts to modulate one another’s energy in a way that ensures the collective energy of all members of the pack are in order and not one member or interaction over-stimulates the environment. If these imbalances were to occur, it could potentially affect all parties involved and put their ability to operate as unit at stake. Let’s now re-enter the home environment where a puppy can feel the same potentials for imbalance and overstimulation as they would when interacting with other dogs. An example would be an arrival home, playtime, specific times of day, and general movement around the house. We see these things as a basic greeting, activities, playing, etc. To our dog or puppy who is highly sensitive and could potentially get over stimulated by this new event, they instantly begin to feel an onslaught of information that begins to disorganize their sensory input system. All of a sudden their ability to process information becomes flooded and now they are in the mode of trying to restore order and balance in the environment while all we are seeing is the wonderful cute puppy we just want to hug and kiss. This mismatch causes a dog to scramble in an attempt at creating some calm in this situation to help bring their sensory system back to a baseline state. As mentioned in the last paragraph, dogs use their mouths to communicate with one another as a means to keep order non-erratic energy in a pack setting. When a dog feels we are not even close to recognizing how we are over stimulating them and causing discontent, they are left with no choice but to take matters into their own hands in a last ditch effort to get some control. This is acted out in the form of nipping at our hands, feet, and clothing. Since no dog in history can handle the undertaking of feeling responsible for the human conditions we share with them, they get even more frustrated as we encourage the mouthing and nipping to continue due to ineffective dog training techniques and from not understanding its actual root context. Deep down a dog realizes it is our job to be aware of all this to create a less stimulating environment preventatively so they would not have become overwhelmed with the responsibility of maintaining order in the first place…If we can achieve this, the biting will stop immediately.

Don’t Dogs Just Like to Chew?

Of course they do! Like I had mentioned, puppies and adult dogs do need an outlet for chewing. It is important though to help your dog approach chewing more like a pastime that they enjoy every now and then versus a necessity of life or seether for their anxiety which has a much deeper meaning to its basis. If your puppy is seeking out inanimate objects to chew on it is a good idea to supply them with appropriate chew toys, safe bones, and other items that can provide a healthy outlet for this behavior. You can also begin to correct the inappropriate chewing to encourage your dog to make the right decisions when it comes to chew items. Again, if your dog is directing their chewing towards you, replacing the action with a bone or toy to discourage them will be minimally effective since this type of chewing is based on the human dog relationship and not your puppy’s sore gums. It is at these times we must be proactive in our communication to demonstrate our abilities to provide balance and sensory modulation for our dogs before they potentially become overwhelmed in a way that triggers the nipping behavior.

Modulating Sensory Input:

Since we now understand that a dog or puppy who is willing to mouth on us does so with a clear intention and is not just randomly biting or teething for no reason. That intention is to restore order in the pack and the sensory processing systems of all its members. If we can simulate this intention as they understand another dog who is better at guiding the rest of the pack would we will instantly begin to address the root causality of why they have been nipping at us in the first place and naturally removes the impulse to do so completely. In other articles I describe techniques on how to use basic dog training commands to guide a dog’s mind to a place of focus and contentment. Applying these techniques helps organize their sensory system and removes the feelings of discontent that creates the impulse to bite to try to do it on their own and for us. In actuality we are just communicating the exact same thing they are trying to do towards us. What happens though when we do it is that a dog’s natural instinct to feel guided by and take direction from humans in a shared situation is tapped into. Giving a dog who previously had questions and insecurities driving their actions a clear job and feelings of sensory integration which removes the cause of the teething, chewing, and biting in a preventative way that establishes the foundation for harmonious relationship between dogs and humans.

You may be thinking to yourself, “What kind of weird Los Angeles dog trainer article is this… Potty Training Puppy?!?!” But to effectively housebreak or potty train your dog you must embrace the fact that you will have to analyze and put some consideration into your dog’s, uh, business…The reason being is that we must get to know our dog’s bathroom habits in order to create a consistent schedule and potty training puppy routine. I always tell my clients that any consistent effort or temporary sacrifices they put forth now, will pay great dividends in the future. In the case of housebreaking a puppy or adult dog, this effort is to pay close attention to the 1 & 2’s and create an at times more restricted indoor environment to help them learn how to “hold it” and only relieve themselves outdoors.

Why Wee Wee Pads are Unnecessary:

There are schools of thought who believe that giving a puppy pads or newspaper to go on then gradually bringing the pad or paper outside for them to make the association is the way to potty train a new puppy. The line of thinking behind this is that since a dog is most likely to find an isolated space to go on in an indoor environment, they will seek out the pad or paper (and they usually do) to go to the bathroom which will then eventually be brought outside when they get older to make the association. The reason puppies and dogs are more likely to have accidents on rugs and far away rooms such as basements is because a healthy dog does not want to soil its living space so it will find an off the beaten path place to do their business. To a dogs perception, even a wood floored room with a small rug can give them the impression that if they go to the bathroom on the rug, their constant wood floor living space will still allow them to keep their environment clean. The problem with all this, is that is gives them a mixed signal right from the start. It gives a dog two wrong impressions: 1) That going to the bathroom indoors is acceptable. Despite on an isolated surface or area. 2) Whenever you need to go potty, you are able to let it fly without any consciousness of being able to hold it for any duration of time. Although we aren’t expecting an 8 week old puppy to hold it for more than an hour or two for the first couple weeks. It is still better to take them outside to go to the bathroom on a schedule that demonstrates this outdoor time as their “window of opportunity” to do their business than to allow them to roam off and go to the bathroom whenever they feel indoors. When I first tell clients this, especially here in Los Angeles where many dogs live in high rises and owners lead very busy lives, many feel that this is being mean or punishing the dog or it is a major inconvenience to take them out frequently and a wee wee pad makes it much more convenient for them. Here’s the responses I give; As far as it being mean or punishment to expect a dog to hold it. Yes, if we did this to a person, it would get ugly real quick. However, dogs are able to develop both the ability to go on cue or command when brought to a designated potty area as well as learn how to, and pardon the following expression, make themselves empty to go for longer periods of time as they become older and develop their housebreaking abilities. In regards to the inconvenience of having to take their dog outside on a schedule more frequently than they wish and the use of a kennel, leash or small room I tell clients that it is a short term sacrifice that although inconveniencing initially, is still much easier than having to rush home to let your dog out because they cannot hold it for long periods of time or to be picking up poop in your home for the next 15-20 years.

Potty training puppy, I Don’t want my Dog to be in Jail…

Although it is an unreasonable argument, there are even some dog trainers who believe that the use of a kennel or crate training for housebreaking and general use is cruel or seen as punishment to a dog. This is one of the most clear ways people humanize dogs and out of deep care and compassion sometimes misinterpret things a dog enjoys as negative because we put our human priorities and point of view into their world and we get tricked into thinking they like/dislike everything we do in life.
Do not be mistaken though. If your dog is only placed in their crate when you leave or it is being used as punishment, they will of course make a negative association and begin to see it as aversive. Despite a dog’s natural denning instincts and tendencies to seek small spaces for physical and sensory security. This is why you must introduce your dog to their crate as early as possible and make it a happy, neutral type of place that they are placed in randomly for varying periods of time and are fed and given treats when they are inside of it from time to time. I tell dog owners if they are willing, they it is more than ok to bring the crate with you to various rooms you may be spending time in so they do not feel they are kept from their family while they are in their crate and you are able to enjoy having your dog around you while you create a more restricted space to develop their ability to stay clean indoors. With that said, let’s discuss how to use the crate or other small space such as a bathroom or leash confinement as a tool to teach our dogs how to hold it indoors and wait until the next time they are taken outside to go.

Leave No Options:

As I mentioned, for a dog or puppy to learn how to only go outdoors, they must see the time they are outside as their only chance until the next time. The amount of time that should elapse until the “next time” is approximately 1 hour of indoor time per month of age with a healthy adult dog being able to comfortably hold it for 8 hours without a problem if taught properly. For example, if your puppy is 3 months of age, they should be able to wait approximately 3-4 hours between bathroom breaks.
But with potty training puppy, how do we teach a dog to wait until the next time they are outside if they are willing to go to bathroom indoors whenever they feel? This is where the kennel or small space comes in handy as a tool to teach them how to exist inside in between bathroom visits while not allowing the opportunity to go indoors in a way that makes sense to their natural instincts. This does not mean that a dog has live in the crate when not outside to go potty. As I mentioned, it should be used as a tool whenever you feel your dog may have an accident at some point, but it is too soon to just take them back outside and make it too easy for them to learn any ability to eventually hold it indoors on their own without the need for a crate or confinement.

Food and Water Counts:

For many puppies, it is of benefit to give them their food and even water on a schedule so you may know when they have fully relieved themselves and are more likely to stay clean indoors without needing to put them in a small space to promote them to hold whatever may be remaining in their system.

Rewards:

When potty training puppy, treats and physical/verbal praise is important to inform your puppy they are going in the right space outdoors and you are proud of their efforts. Just make sure you time your reward while they are relieving themselves or immediately after if it causes a distraction.

Bells and Whistles:

There are many devices I have seen over the years besides wee wee pads that have been developed to accommodate a human interpretation of how we should potty training puppy versus what is actually far more easier and makes most sense to them based on their instincts and abilities as a species. One gimmicky product I am not particularly fond of is the little jingle bells they sell. The idea behind these is so a dog may signal its owner when it has to go by pawing at the bell. Hopefully if you have taken anything from this article you can clearly see how this does not teach a dog how to hold it in for any length of time. From a dog training and behavior perspective, by a dog feeling they have to command or tell a human any action they must perform, even for something as seemingly helpful as having to go potty. It can make certain dogs anxious by feeling they have to assume what other requests they may need to make to get what they need in life. Dogs should feel 100% satisfied that we can decide and provide everything they need in life small and large. I have seen countless dogs in my practice who suffer from debilitating anxiety or aggression that developed from simple and seemingly innocent actions that gave the dog the impression they were responsible for human actions.

Caught in the Act:

What do I do if I catch my dog going in the house or they have already had an accident?
If you have not established a consistent housebreaking routine when potty training puppy that is based in preventing the accidents by creating a structured indoor environment, then you should do nothing. By reacting, you could give your dog that it is a way to get attention (positive or negative is still attention). Furthermore, it is a good practice to remove your dog from the area the mess was made while cleaning it up so they cannot see you so they do not feel it creates any type of change of routine or dictation of your actions in any way.
Once you feel you have been preventing the majority of accidents by a good housebreaking process and your dog has developed a greater ability to hold it and go on cue when taken outdoors, you may then respond to a random accident by bring the actual mess outside on a paper towel to a spot they like to go and show them while telling them “good potty” or whatever praise you have established for going in the proper place. Many years ago I learned a harsher method that was more corrective in its response to accidents in the house by another dog trainer who was very knowledgeable but very old school. Short of rubbing their nose in it, he believed you should correct the dog before bringing them outside to show them the proper spot. The reality is most people are pretty irritated when they discover their dog has gone in the house and I have found that something as simple as putting them away for a few minutes before addressing the issue puts both of you in a better learning space than the older punishment based methods of motivating dogs to do what we want them to do.

The End Game:

What should we expect from our dog once we have taught them proper housebreaking skills? As your pup or adult dog continues to develop the ability to hold it longer and remain indoors clean without the use of a kennel, you should be able to leave them in any indoor space for up to 8 hours without a problem. They will actually begin to see your house or apartment as one giant kennel that they associate with never going potty inside while outdoors has become the consistent norm. This can happen in a matter of weeks for most puppies, or could take months for an adult dog who has learned an improper housebreaking regiment and needs to re-learn a completely new foundation to replace their initial, faulty associations. As with humans, there is a learning curve even for dogs. The key is remain consistent and neutral every single day! Do not veer of course because your dog has. By taking the exact same actions and preventative approach to housebreaking, your dog will learn only one way will work and by choosing that way they will be rewarded and feel better by keeping their indoor living environment clean.

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer, an expert in potty training puppy and author with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com and follow his twitter @thedogsavant

Aside from giving a dog exercise and the opportunity to go potty, the act of walking your dog is at the very foundation of the human / dog relationship. Additionally, a well structured walking regiment will help avoid any unwanted dog behavior problems such as leash pulling, lunging, chasing, leash aggression, and anxiety. Whenever I begin a training program with a new client the first goal we set out to do is to master the walks. This provide the leadership, structure, and exercise required to provide a secure foundation for any further training goals we may have for their dog. Here in Los Angeles and any other city there is too much going on all the time to have a dog who is out of control on the leash or is constantly reacting to everything going on around them. By understanding the importance of the walk in the human dog relationship and applying the techniques I will teach, you will learn how to walk your dog in a controlled and relaxed way that will help foster a deep connection with your dog and avoid problems associated with walking and the leash.

It’s in our Genetics:

Other than the occasional sloth. Most animal species are meant to migrate through their natural habitats in search of resources to survive. We as humans have evolved to the point that “hunting” means hopping in our hybrid SUV to go to the supermarket to get some food. Dogs however are seeing the world through the same set of eyes they always have been! They are looking to navigate rough terrain alongside their human guides in search of the next food supply or shelter to keep moving forward for the sake of survival. Sounds a lot different than a day at the office and running errands around suburbia, doesn’t it? Studies have even shown that a daily walking routine for humans creates a deep feeling of satisfaction. As if the brain and body are saying, “Thank you for doing what nature intended us to do…” Imagine how the guidance and structure of simulated “hunting and gathering” could benefit your dog since they are driven by even purer instincts than we are!

Let’s Get Started:

Depending on your dog’s previous walking experience and abilities it may be helpful to create structure on your walks via a “Heel” or similar type of walking command. What this command does is designate one specific place for your dog to stroll alongside of you. This helps them stay in the moment by focusing on their task at hand and their pack vs. the extraneous stimuli you would encounter or the urge to pull ahead to quickly. What this also does is demonstrate to your dog that you are acting more dog-like in terms of recognizing the need to preventatively lead your pack instead of always reacting to the problems after the fact. What I have learned long ago is that dogs actually understand how to walk in this fashion without having to give them a command if you communicate clearly that you understand the protocol and rules of how to walk them properly. Since this is rarely the case with most people who are just getting started. I find that giving both the dog and owner a clear command to default to when walking or navigating life, it helps both parties come to a common ground and obtain a better grasp of what each expects from one another. If you are reading this and your dog has a tendency to pull, lunge, or react to dogs / people when on a leash, I would strongly suggest using a command like “Heel” to guide your dog through walks. This should be the mainstay initially until you are able to demonstrate the confidence and control that will keep your dog calm and non-reactive as the norm. After consistently creating this new way of walking, you can begin to walk in a more casual fashion that does not require as much structure and focus.

How to Teach Your Dog the Heel Command:

As I mentioned, dogs instinctively understand certain implications you make to them if you are speaking their language of energy, body language, and pressure. We are going to use these principles of communication to teach your dog how to perform this command. Therefore, treats will be used to reinforce certain expectations of performance we place on them as a dog who understands this and not as a means to bribe or manipulate them to perform and action. Treats can also be used to help lure dogs who are so stubborn they are willing to throw their bodies down in protest in their attempt at regaining control of the walks. Since we of course do not want to drag our dogs, treats can be a good way to distract a dog to resume walking so you may reengage the command.

Step 1) Begin walking with the command word:

This can be “heel”, “let’s go”, “walk”, or whatever word you feel comfortable using. Just remember that this command will be associated with movement and you must be moving while teaching it.

Step 2) Do not trigger the opposition reflex:

If you observe dogs at play they are constantly nipping one another behind the ears back and forth or as they run next to each other. I call this behavior “herding”. The reason I call it this is because it is the same instinct we tap into when we want a dog to herd sheep or moving alongside an object. When we are communicating a walk that does not promote leash pulling or reactions to extraneous stimuli, we are in essence “herding” our dogs in way they complete understand. There is a technique to this. We must keep the leash and collar very high and snug behind a dog’s ears to project pressure and energy into the precise location another dog would project theirs to guide them as they migrated through an environment. You may have seen show dogs walked this way. Cesar Milan, the dog whisperer even invented a special illusion collar that is meant to stay behind a dog’s ears instead of falling low on their neck and shoulders, triggering what I call the Opposition reflex. The opposition reflex is the tendency for energy to pull against itself. It is that sensation you feel with a harness (why sled dogs are so good at pulling!) or even a collar than falls too low on a dogs neck. Your dog begins to pull even more and can even begin to choke themselves! This is why we must always take the time to make sure the collar is always positioned properly, even if you have to stop and slide it up every now and then. Remember, the goal is to project energy through a tense line as efficiently as another dog would “herd” one another naturally. This can be done with a number of different training collars and leashes available all over Los Angeles and worldwide. My article titled, “Dog Training Equipment” gives a full overview of everything you need to know in regards to all the dog training equipment and tools that are available.

Step 3) Pump and Turn:

As you can see, we are trying to simulate the same mechanism that makes dogs flow so effortless when physically engaging one another naturally. Once we become comfortable with collar placement, we then must use it to send a signal of sorts to draw a dog to the moment as we take each step. We do this by keeping the leash snug behind the ears and gently pulsate the leash to send waves of energy to draw their attention to you and the command as another dog would guide them through and environment. We do this because many dogs have a tendency to cast themselves ahead of their bodies mentally to create what I explain as a mental rubber band effect. I call it this because dogs are experts at projecting their intentions way too ahead of themselves for the sake of forging ahead and surviving. What happens because of this instinct is that a walk around the neighborhood feels like a slingshot from being pulled forward unconsciously (the root of pretty much every behavior problem). Your goal as their guide and pack leader is to give them the opposite effect of the mental rubber band. By using the leash, our voice, and other means of tapping into their highly sensitive existence we are able to draw their energy and intent back to the moment of the pack. This keeps their mind and body connected naturally as we would give them guidance and direction as we are hunting and gathering together instinctively.

If you find your dog continues to pull or is distracted despite your pumping efforts it is now time to be clearer in our ability to guide them more proficiently than they can us. Once it is clear your dog is not responding allow them to drift ahead as you swiftly turn in the opposite direction away from them. This about-face maneuver should have you briefly going in opposite directions. Once this disconnect happens, give the leash a pump or two to send energy through the leash to the pressure points behind their ears I spoke of earlier and continue to walk in the opposite direction until they are once again alongside you walking properly. (Caution: do not jerk or yank on leash in a corrective way or put prolonged pressure on their throat). You may have to finesse the collar a little to obtain proper positioning high on their neck since this is an admittedly awkward move to make while walking your dog…With practice it becomes more natural. When done properly with the right timing and consistency, you will begin to see you dog draw back and fall into a more relaxed position while walking because of your ability to prevent their mental energy (the rubberband) from over projecting. It is at this point that you should start to reinforce your command word (heel, let’s go, etc.) and praise your dog for walking without pulling once they are making the effort of performing what you are teaching them on their own without being reminded. The goal is to be able to say the command and initiate the walk without constantly reminding them of what to do.

Step 4)

Potty and Exploring: A dog needs time to do their business and to sniff and explore. However if they are heavily focused on their command, this is difficult to do. There needs to be a designated “off duty” or “recess” command like “ok” or “release” to tell your dog they are off duty so they can go doody. Once they are done you may reinitiate the command to resume walking.

Step 5) Reinforcement and Proofing:

As your dog continues to improve their walking command and is beginning to walk in a calm way on their own it is important to reinforce and proof their efforts. This means that you should reward your dog (verbal and treats) to make their new abilities heavily reinforced. As well as “proof” them by taking skills they can perform solidly in a controlled environment and teach them how to carry them over to increasingly intense and new distractions, environments, and social situations. Continue to reward your dog for new breakthroughs and efforts as well. At this point your dog should also not require a constant command to walk everywhere you go since you have demonstrated consistent leadership and calm associations while walking when you were willing to make the commands a mainstay.

A Quick fix:

There are many dog training devices on the market like no pull harnesses and gentle leader haltis that seem to be a quick fix to a dog’s leash pulling and reaction problems. Unfortunately, many trainers even use these as a way to avoid a deep understanding of the human dog relationship and willingness to communicate in a way that promotes a higher level of engagement between the two species. Basically they can be like putting a band aid on a dog’s behavior problems instead of addressing the root cause to provide natural long term solutions.

What is the Ultimate Goal?:

The goal of mastering the walks with your dog is to have a dog who enjoys walking while not pulling and getting too ahead of themselves both mentally and physically or over reacting to distractions as you travel together as a pack.

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer and author with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a reality show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com

Looking for a Malibu Dog Trainer? Contact The Dog Savant Now!

Whether you are visiting an on or off leash dog park, hiking trails, or Leo Carrillo state park dog beach, the Malibu are of L.A. is worth the trip if you want to enjoy a day of beach or mountain adventures with your best friend. I frequent this area often with my own dog to offer him exercise and practice his dog training skills and we are never disappointed. I wanted to share a few links to websites I found useful for the area:

Dog Beach:

http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=616

Dog Parks:

http://www.bringfido.com/attraction/parks/city/malibu_ca_us/

Leo Carrillo State Park Dog Beach:

http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=616

Malibu Dog Friendly Hiking Trails:

http://www.malibuhiking.com/dog_friendly_trails.html

Malibu Veterinarians:

http://www.malibuvets.com/

Home

Homepage

http://www.onetopanga.com/

Single-pointed focus is the state of achieved when a being becomes one with everything. It is also at times called being in “the zone” or many famous athletes, artists, and other exceptional people report achieving and maintaining this state of being when they are performing at their top levels. They explain it as a deep rooted feeling of not having any extraneous thoughts. Just being in the moment of pure contentment and one with the universe.

In Buddhism the goal of many meditations is to focus on one single thought (or even no thoughts) to achieve this state. Not just during meditation, but as a carry-over effect to help navigate everyday life in a calm and balanced way that breeds contentment, rational thought, and an overall peaceful feeling all over. Scans have been done on the brains of Buddhist monks and meditation masters which show a significant difference in the way their brains function and relate to external stimuli. As compared to the brains of average adults.

What I teach my clients is the art of “dog meditation”… That’s it! As with humans, a dog’s mind can become overly active at times he does not know what to do during certain transitions in the lives we share together. As I mentioned in a previous article, “Anxiety and the dominant dog”. The over anticipation of future events that create mental whirlwinds when these events actually do happen is the definition of what makes dogs unbalanced. This is what anxiety is. Even for us. The only difference is that dogs are still animals who port hole to fight or flight mode much quicker than we do. This means that in certain moments where a dog over thinks a situation, they could become tremendously overwhelmed. Far beyond a normal human response to anxiety and over-thinking.
What is the remedy if all dog behavior problems are attributed to this issue? It is the redirection (preventatively and reactively) a dog’s mind and thoughts to a state of single-pointed focus at times where they lose sight of the moment they are in.

This not only synchronizes their mind/body connection to achieve a deep state of focus and relaxation, which replaces the typical discontentment shown at specific times for many dogs I see in my practice. But it also achieves the same residual effect as human meditation does. Through dog meditation we can make a dog feel balanced and in a content baseline state during their everyday life. This is also why I never look at unwanted dog behaviors as being on the surface. If examined objectively, you will find there is always a deeper rooted discontentment that when addressed, resolves any physical state your dog creates.
I will continue to post dog training and behavior tips/articles in the future that discuss in detail the actual steps to helping your dog become an enlightened pooch.