If you are in the greater Los Angeles or San Fernando Valley area contact us, we can help!

The Environment

Puppies are naturally curious. This affords them the ability to learn about their surroundings and socialize. However, this innocent curiosity can quickly lead to trouble if the environment is not structured and “puppy proofed”. By restricting a young dogs ability to roam about and slowly give them increasingly more freedom as they mature, you will be preventing /minimizing the chances of your dog being harmed or destroying your belongings and learning bad habits such as chewing, hyperactivity, and potty training issues. Some ways I recommend my clients “restrict” their puppy’s home environment is to have them on a leash or in a playpen initially when coexisting in the various spaces you share within the home environment. When your puppy is alone, a crate is the safest place for them when you cannot supervise their activity.  It is also critical in teaching your dog potty training skills as I will explain next.

Potty Training

Teaching your dog to go to the bathroom outside is a pretty straightforward process. Yet, so many dog owners get it wrong because of the products (and bizarre philosophies) that try to bargain with nature in attempts at accommodating the conveniences of human wants while going against a dog’s natural instincts to keep their living environment clean.  In Los Angeles many people live in apartments and want the convenience of not having to go for walks every time their dog has to go to the bathroom even though it ends up being exponentially more work in the long term.  With that said, do not use pee pads, litter boxes, or grass patches in your home unless there is a medical need your dog has that requires you to do so. It will only cause problems in the long run! Reason being is that it teaches a dog to go to the bathroom at will versus learning how to go on command and hold it for increasingly longer time periods as their age and overall housebreaking abilities increase. By tapping into a dog’s instincts by use of a crate or small space they will keep clean and learn how to “hold it” and “go” when it is the proper time to remain comfortable until the next scheduled bathroom visit that you dictate based on their age and abilities. I have additional articles and videos on this subject in my Los Angeles dog trainer blog for a more in depth explanation of how to potty train your puppy.

Nipping Vs. Teething

As with many dog behaviors, one of the most misinterpreted is the reasoning by which a puppy chooses to mouth or bite. In most cases it gets minimized and written of as “teething” or “play” since it does not intend to break skin and we see them do it to each other in play amongst themselves. However, if examined from a dogs perspective you will see it has great meaning and should be addressed as soon as your puppy begins to display this behavior. What puppy biting towards you, your clothing, or the leash means (different than chewing furniture!) is your dog is trying to modulate their sensory system and resistance to the physical control that is going to have to be a part of their lives (leash walking, handling, holding, etc.). Although they can figure it out when engaging each other, as a human, it cannot be seen as tolerable since it can cause harm and send your dog the wrong message in terms of your leadership awareness and that putting their mouth on a humans’s skin is acceptable. By teaching your puppy how to relax by other means versus allowing or punishing the behavior when they become too stimulated, you are addressing the root cause of why puppies bite and redirecting the sensory overload to a calmer place via focus-based training and redirection. You may visit my article here that gives a complete overview on puppy teething, mouthing, and biting plus how to deal with it.

Socialization

From the moment your puppy is born they are making associations with their external world. Because of this, you want to have them associate that people, other animals, and varying environments are an everyday part of life by exposing them to everything as much as possible while they are young.  You also want these associations to be reasonably calm and objective so they do not develop a habit of becoming over-stimulated or reactive in new social situations and are more inclined to listen when distracted by external stimuli in the future when you want them to listen to you and not react.

Playtime, Toys, Bones, Etc.

There are many products marketed to new puppy owners. Here in the Hollywood and Los Angeles area there is no shortage of goods and services available for dogs. You can easily spend a small fortune on your pet if you succumb to your indulgences. The fact of the matter is most of this is for us and is not really what dogs want if they could go shopping (or hunting ) on their own. With that said, a simple bone to chew (raw and safe), a ball to chase, and challenging puzzle or stuffed kong type chew toy is all a dog really needs. Be careful with stuffed, roped, rawhide, or easily destroyed chew toys since many puppies have been known to ingest them and this is not safe. It is great to play with your dog. But it is best to engage in more constructive play such as fetch, find it, or some type of training like agility if your dog gets too stimulated / mouthy from one on one roughhousing type play. This makes you more of a “coach” than a “playmate” which a dog who has biting potential when playing requires from us.

Basic Commands

You want to begin imprinting the basic commands you would like your puppy to perform as an adult dog as early as possible. Of course getting a 100′ off-lead recall may not come right away. But if you begin to consistently teach your young dog the foundation of what is in store for the future they begin to make the correct associations from the very start. Start practicing and developing the basic dog training commands (Sit, Down, Come, Let’s Go, etc.) everyday in a wide range of environments and situations to help your puppy reach their best training potential.

Have Fun!

Although the purpose of this article is to be a straightforward approach to raising a puppy. (dog trainers tend to be this way) it is still important to have fun! Take lots of pictures / videos and indulge in the enjoyment of what makes a puppy so wonderful! Just be aware of the times that thinking like a dog and reacting as such may be more beneficial in teaching your dog the right habits you are trying to instill for a lifetime versus giving in to our human emotions.

Nobody wants their fun leisurely walk with their loving pet to turn into an all out tug-of-war battle,  your will want to rush ahead and go wherever he wants.  If you are quite happy to rush from tree to post whilst your dog smells which of his friends has been there before him,  don’t bother reading on.  If however you wish to take control of walkies and enjoy a pleasant walk with your canine family member here are 5 simple tips on how to stop leash pulling from your dog.

If you are in the greater Los Angeles or San Fernando Valley area contact us, we can help!

1. Preparation is Key:

If you want to stop leash pulling, don’t just put on the leash and go…Take 10-15 minutes (or more) of “lead time” to warm your dog up by walking them around the house with their leash / collar so they are more focused on their job versus being anxious about the walk once you actually are at the door after this warm up period is done. It is also helpful to have your dog wear their leash at random times other than pre-walk so they can reduce the strong associations they may be having with it always being a pre-cursor to walks.

2. Structure your Walks

Teaching your dog to obey a strong Heel or Let’s Go type of walking command will reduce the over-projection and anxiety associated with leash pulling in dogs. By having your dog commit to one clearly defined space next to you, it gives your dog a job to do and promotes focus in your direction instead of constantly thinking ahead! Plus, walking this way simulates how dogs (and many other animal species) align with a pack, herd, pod, etc. instead of the independent, over anticipation that leads to a dog thinking many steps ahead of where you and their bodies actually are. Which creates the cause for distractions and reactions on walks.

3. Structure your Dog’s Home Environments

As a professional dog trainer in Los Angeles most of my clients’s dogs do not just suffer from leash pulling as an isolated problem. Because I have been in the homes of literally thousands of dog owners with problem pooches I have had the opportunity to observe how most dogs who have unwanted behaviors like pulling on their leash are also highly anxious and hypersensitive in their indoor home lives as well. Examples of this are “tracking” their owners movements too closely / impulsively (following you everywhere nonstop), getting easily stimulated, or being pushy by having to “ask” for resources such as food, potty time, and attention. By giving dogs of this nature more structure and training at home when they may be too reactive to what is going on around them it communicate that we are able to keep track of them and give them things to do while we conduct our own human business in their presence. By implementing your dog training when you are actually living and not as a scheduled thing, you also help teach your pup how to listen to you while life is happening when you may really need it!

4. Socialization

Many dogs have difficulty walking because they are not socialized enough and become too stimulated and over reactive to things they are not familiar with. By getting your dog out in the world to experience as many people, dogs, and different environments as possible with a calm, association to listening versus reacting, they will learn how to be more neutral to what you may encounter on your walks.

5. Check Your Equipment

Unfortunately, some dog training equipment can be counterproductive to teaching your dog to stop leash pulling. Traditional harnesses or even a dog collar that is worn too low on a dog’s neck can trigger a pulling (opposition) reflex which creates the sensation for a dog to want to pull against this pressure and energy being dispersed too low and broadly across their bodies. This is how sled dogs operate! Some dog training equipment such as no-pull harnesses and gentle lead / head halti devices work a little better at preventing leash pulling physically, but does not address the over-projection of a dog’s thinking as the cause of why they have pulling problems. It’s in essence putting a band aid over the problem (most overly-positive dog training tends to do this) and a dog never learns how to organically walk as their natural instincts dictate. All dogs have this ability!

Instead, a collar worn snug behind a dogs ears (similar to how show dogs are walked and the dog whisperers collar) provides the right type of pressure to help draw focus inward and reorganize their sensory system to prevent them from over projecting. It is basically like teaching your dog how to meditate instead of them visualizing themselves halfway around the neighborhood before the walk even begins! Remember, we are not trying to choke or correct our dogs (primary reason dog owners / trainers avoid using a “training” collar in the first place) our goal is to project our energy or chi by sending light pressure in the pockets behind their ears as another dogs would do with their mouths to keep their structure while flowing together as a pack. You can even see dogs do this in play as they attempt to herd each other to establish angles and direction.

By learning how to connect with your dog naturally as a lifestyle and in your training you will begin to see results and learn how to stop leash pulling from day one…

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer and author based in L.A. with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles / San Fernando Valley area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com or email: dogtrainingla@gmail.com

Being a Los Angeles dog trainer for over 20 years I have learned one constant…I am not training dogs whatsoever.  My job description is to actually teach and educate dog owners how to tap into something that is already there.  By learning how to become a more conscious dog owner, you too can learn how to connect with your dog in the most meaningful way possible that promotes a calm, well behaved and happy pet!

If you are in the greater Los Angeles or San Fernando Valley area contact us, we can help!

1) Is your Dog Happy?:

Sometimes we get so busy we forget to take the time to step back and observe our dogs (and ourselves) in terms of the level of inner peace they are demonstrating An overstimulated, hyperactive dog is not a happy dog. Dogs feel best when their energy is properly directed towards appropriate outlets such as structured exercise and focus-based training. Other than those times, a happy dog should be pretty much relaxed in our presence on their downtime without a whole lot to be concerned about.

2) Socialize your Dog to Everything!:

Dogs are migrating and social pack animals. They thrive on being around other people and going to new places / experiences. The more you take them to the dog park, beach, walks, etc. the more they get their requirements for socialization met to help them feel secure and content as a whole.

3) Whole Foods for Dogs:

Feed your dog a healthy diet. When I first started as professional dog trainer it was difficult to recommend healthy foods because most pet shops and supermarkets still carried your standard poor quality commercial kibble. Now the choices are endless to the point that they even have a chain of home cooked dog food shops here in Los Angeles! From dry to raw diets, it is quite easy and affordable to feed your dog a balanced diet.

4) Pick up Your Dog’s Poop!:

Pick up your dog’s poop!
5) Give your Dog the Right type of Love and Affection: 

Dogs thrive on receiving love and attention.  However, there are times when a dog cannot handle getting lavished with affection / treats/ attention if it creates the cause for overstimulation or prohibits them from listening when it is unsafe.  It is our job as their human pack leaders  to be disciplined enough to not always indulge in our emotions and distribute love and praise when it is most appropriate so it is received by our dogs at face value and not as something else we do not intend.   As I tell my dog training clients in Los Angeles, the more you are willing to do this consistently when your dog is a puppy or new rescue pet, the less you have to be concerned about it down the road.

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer and author based in L.A. with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles / San Fernando Valley area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com or email: dogtrainingla@gmail.com

The following are a few helpful tips I share with my Los Angeles dog training clients to help you resolve your excessive dog barking problems too.

1) Dogs Should take a “Wait and See” Approach to Life

I find a large percentage of problem barking is directed at humans in attempts to “seek” something they need from their two legged counterparts. Although many people find this cute or think it is good that “they are telling me what they need…” This is not a good thing at all and a major cause of anxiety and excessive dog barking in the cases I see. As I tell all of my clients, you are good at taking care of your dog and providing what they need in the appropriate time frame necessary. Whether is be food, attention, or to be let out, unless there is a medical emergency, a dog should NEVER feel responsible for dictating the next event or action that occurs between them and humans. It empowers them to be responsible for a situation that is beyond overwhelming for them to handle. Our world is far too complicated for them to feel responsible for even the most basic of transactions. Yet, will find great contentment in patiently waiting for all their needs to be accommodated in our time frame as we dictate.

2) Give Your Dog a Job

Many dogs who are our pets were genetically made to work and are highly driven. On their own, they can easily become bored or simply not know what to do when our fast paced lives are going on around them. By created structured tasks vis basic commands while you are doing your chores, family gatherings, and other transitional times, it simulates the essence of what dogs first did alongside early man. To take direction from humans as we take care of our human business.

3) Physical Exercise

Exercise helps release physical energy, gives a dog the chance to feel free, and releases endorphins into their systems to help them feel more balanced overall reducing their need for excessive dog barking. Every healthy dog should have a regular exercise regiment in place. Even out of shape or senior dogs can benefit from daily walks and the occasion run. I offer k9 personal training sessions even for my clients in Los Angeles and Hollywood.

4) Mental Exercise

Like physical energy, mental energy needs and outlet too. By providing a daily training regiment that challenges a dog’s mind and develops single pointed focus as described in #2, releases a great deal of thinking energy that drives the overthinking which leads to problem behaviors.

5) Socialization

Some dogs get frustrated from not being around their own kind. Although they do not need to live at the dog park, it gives them a sense of purpose and validation to see that they are not the only ones i the world who walk on all fours and pee outside.

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer and author based in L.A. with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles / San Fernando Valley area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com  email: dogtrainingla@gmail.com and check out his Yelp Dog Training Reviews.

1) Hike Runyon Canyon Park:

Runyon Canyon Park is the place to be if you want to spot celebrity pets strolling alongside their owners or are looking for some outdoor time with your dog Hollywood style! The park is actually quite beautiful and you can allow your dog off leash once you are in the park.

Runyon Canyon Park
Address: 2001 N. Fuller Ave. Los Angeles
Tip: Park can get busy on the weekends and parking can be tricky. I always find it best to go during the week when there are less crowds.

2) Leo Carillo State Dog Beach:

With the amount of coastline and beaches Los Angeles boasts, there are actually very few public areas that allow dogs. Leo Carillo state beach is one of the few in the area that are dog friendly. Located in Malibu, this beach is the perfect excuse to take a road trip with fido to enjoy some sun and surf with other dogs and their owners.

Leo Carillo State Beach
Address: 35000 Pacific Coast Highway Malibu, CA
Tip: Teach your dog good off-lead listening and socialization skills to ensure you both have the best time while at the dog park.

3) Laurel Canyon Dog Park:

If you are a a dog owner and live anywhere near the San Fernando Valley or Hollywood there is a good chance you already have been here…multiple times! This park is huge and in a cool mountain setting. This is a great park to socialize your dog anytime of day due to its convenient location and constant stream of “dog traffic” coming and going all day long.

Laurel Canyon Dog Park
Address: 8260 Mullholland Dr. Los Angeles
Tip: The park can get hot and dry in the summer so plan accordingly.  Local Dog Walkers tend to take large packs of dogs there during the day time.

4) Dog Rescue Events

One of the trends in Los Angeles I am actually in agreement with is the status of owning a rescue animal. Because of the large homeless pet population in L.A., there are rescue events and benefits being held almost daily. There are hundreds of shelters and rescues from Calabasas to Compton eager to adopt to a loving and responsible family. To not even go to just “take a look…” is to not be an Angelino!

Thousands of homeless dogs need new homes everyday!
Where: Your local animal shelter, rescue organization, or online rehoming website.
Tip: Because every dog deserves to have a happy and safe existence.

5) Beverly Hills Pet Boutiques

Although I am more of bare bones (pun totally intended) type of dog trainer, I do find it fascinating how dogs have become without a doubt full members of our families. Earning them the right to drain mom and dad’s bank account like any good human child should. If you like to indulge in your pet or see how the other furry half lives, take a stroll through the many high end pet shops and dog boutiques in Beverly Hills and other parts of L.A.

Pariero Pet Boutique
Address: 8268 Melrose Ave. Los Angeles
Tip: This Japanese dog clothing company has their flagship store at this location and has what it takes to make your pup the most stylish pet at his doggie daycare.

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer and author based in L.A. with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles / San Fernando Valley area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com or email: dogtrainingla@gmail.com

These song lyrics do not only apply to children. By taking the time to teach your dog how to navigate the most common everyday situations they may encounter, (vs. expecting them to “figure it out” on their own) you are not only preventing a potential disaster or at the very least the development of bad habits, but you are also giving them an impression of what to do in the environments and interactions you will be sharing daily for the rest of your lives.

2) Potty Training:

Unfortunately too many new puppy owners get bad advice on how to housebreak their dog and use methods like pee pads or doggie doors as a way to try to teach their dog how to use the bathroom outdoors. The rationale is that the dog will know when to go and seek out these conveniences as a way to relive themselves. Although these methods are appropriate if your dog has a medical issue or has been taught proper housebreaking skills prior to their use (a doggie door can be a great thing!) a dog needs to develop the association of going to the bathroom outdoors and learn how to “hold it” as early as possible for increasingly longer periods of time as they mature. This is so they may learn as an adult dog how to wait for you to let them out so they know when to “go” on command and to (sorry for this one guys…) “empty” themselves so they may “hold it” comfortably until the next schedule potty break you decide as a conscious and responsible dog owner. Unlike humans, all dogs are capable of learning how to do this! Quite frankly, the only adult cases I see in my Los Angeles dog training practice with housebreaking problems are the ones who were either taught it was ok to go indoors with wee wee pads or were taken out too frequently when they should have learned how to “hold it” a better. This can be all avoided by develop a constant bathroom schedule from the start with your new puppy. Please visit my other articles that describe puppy potty training in more detail on my website’s bog dogtrainingla.com
3) Socialization, Socialization, Socialization:

Need I say more? I cannot stress how dogs who were not socialized or improperly introduced to people, dogs, places, etc. as a puppy is the number one reason I have a job! Invest in your dogs future and get them out into the world and allow them to experience as much as possible while they are young and most impressionable. There are countless dog parks, daycares, playgroups,, and of course other dog owners all Los Angeles and beyond.
4) Basic Training for Puppies:

Teaching your dog basic commands (Heel, Sit, Down, Come, etc.) as early as possible will create a lasting imprint so your dog training commands can be relied upon consistently if needed in a real life situation. You should begin to imprint basic commands the day you get your pup home. The myth that you should wait 4-6 months until you begin training your puppy is nonsense. A dog is constantly learning from the day it is born and you can seize the opportunity to begin teaching your dog the right associations from day one! I have seen first hand what happens if an owner waits to long for some more difficult dogs to start their education. Even a few months can make a big difference in how hard you need to work to get your dog on the right track to being well mannered and listen as an adult when the chips are down. Begin teaching with treats and to build performance / enthusiasm, but make sure you do not rely on them always to get your dog to listen so they can trust that what you say is safest for them regardless of what is in your hand as a bribe.

5) Have fun!:

Although there will be you are having to train your dog when all you want to do instead is indulge in the strong emotions you feel towards them. This is, of course why you got a puppy in the first place and for the most part, completely appropriate. Just always be aware of the times when training and guidance may be a greater priority than indulging in our human impulses. If only as a means to prevent more severe future problems. By taking the time to be a balanced and aware new puppy owner you will be rewarded with a well mannered adult dog who you can actually love and enjoy!

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer and author with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com

All living things need food to survive. When the instinct to be satiated of hunger is relieved by eating, the brain tells the organism to feel satisfied. A small release of a neurochemical called dopamine is released to the pleasure sensor of the brain when this happens. This chemical creates the feelings we associate with being satisfied or in bliss after a good meal! this feeling also tells you that you do not need to eat anymore until the next feeling of hunger reappears and needs to be relieved once again. What can happen in dogs (us too) though, is that this subtle “pleasure reward” becomes too needy and inappropriately makes them feel as if they need more food. Even though they are nutritionally content. This can be because a dog is a natural “food hound” and need to learn how to see food as something they do not need 24-7. Or they are conditioned gradually over time by incorrect feeding practices and like many unbalances in dogs, are a product of human interference.

When it comes to training, treats have to be used and delivered appropriately. For the most part as a foundation to teach new concepts or commands or when training a young puppy new life skills. Once used as a foundation however, a dog must quickly learn that your commands or requests in life are what matters most to get everything provided. Not just because you have a treat. As needed and decided by you. This means they are not selective in listening just because you have something that gives them their “fix”. Hardly! It actually means they respect that whatever their opinions are in any circumstance, your decisions (training commands, requests, good behavior, etc) matter most in any situation you may encounter together.

If the relationship you establish with your dog is based on understanding and projecting the right energy, commands, once taught correctly, should apply anytime you ask. Not just when the treat pouch is worn. The following are

Twelve Steps To Ending Your Dog’s Treat Addiction:

• Admit that you only can get your dog to listen when a treat is present and your willingness to change that.
• Came to understand that a dog’s natural instincts of communication are more powerful than a piece of kibble or operant conditioning on their own.
• Made a decision to learn how to rethink how we perceive our pets and learn a better way of communicating with them.
• Took a true inventory of our dog’s training strengths and weaknesses.
• Admitted we were not wrong for our actions, but misinformed by the countless misinterpretations out there when it comes to truly understand how dogs perceive reality.
• Become ready to commit to your dog’s rehabilitation of treat reliance.
• Humbly allow nature to guide us in learning to understand our dogs.
• Make a list of all the times our dogs only listened because we had a treat and work on ways to change it.
• Make sure we accommodate all of our dog’s needs (exercise, training, affection, nutrition, socialization) so they are most likely to respond to our requests.
• Continue to work on improving our dog’s abilities to listen to us in all of life’s situations even after they have overcome their treat addiction.
• Become aware of the forces of energy, morphic fields, projection, and other concepts not always at the forefront of our everyday thought. It is for your dog.
• Having realized the benefits of communicating, and not just training your dog, I will spread the message of a dog’s pure view and way of interacting with the world to dog owners and dog parks everywhere!

I intentionally named this article teething, chewing, and biting. I use these terms since they are the most common words people use to describe the act of a puppy or in some cases adult dogs putting their mouth on skin, clothing, furniture, leashes, rugs, etc. The goal of this article is to help promote awareness of what these behaviors actually mean and how to address them.

Why do Dogs use their Mouths?

A dogs mouth is the most important part of its body. Not only do they use their mouths to eat and hunt, but it also acts as their hands, means of communicating, and way to modulate the energy of other members of their pack in efforts to remain order and balance. Because of the numerous contexts a dog or puppy can use their mouths it is very important to recognize the motivation behind the action before we are quick to write it off as “puppy teething” or “just what our dog likes to do when playing…” Unfortunately I hear dog owners report that their veterinarian explained how their puppy is” biting on their hands and clothing because they are simply teething.” This is not true. Since the mouthing is directed towards humans at times when the puppy becomes over stimulated, it is based more on communication, sensory modulation, and the actual relationship we share with our dogs. Whereas true puppy teething is actually something directed towards inanimate objects like bones, toys, and at times your furniture when the need to seethe their new and growing teeth arises. Although these behaviors can seem identical when taken out of context, it is very clear that when a dog directs their mouthiness towards us, there is a lot more meaning behind it than just random chewing as a pastime.

Hands and Pant legs?

We usually do not think about these two items in the same sentence. So why do dogs who have a gusto for mouthing seem to direct it mostly towards our hands and ankles? This comes back to how dogs naturally communicate. If you ever see dogs playing they are constantly nipping at each other’s ears and hindquarters. There is a distinct reason for this. They are not randomly biting at each other without purpose. They are doing a dance of sorts in efforts to modulate one another’s energy in a way that ensures the collective energy of all members of the pack are in order and not one member or interaction over-stimulates the environment. If these imbalances were to occur, it could potentially affect all parties involved and put their ability to operate as unit at stake. Let’s now re-enter the home environment where a puppy can feel the same potentials for imbalance and overstimulation as they would when interacting with other dogs. An example would be an arrival home, playtime, specific times of day, and general movement around the house. We see these things as a basic greeting, activities, playing, etc. To our dog or puppy who is highly sensitive and could potentially get over stimulated by this new event, they instantly begin to feel an onslaught of information that begins to disorganize their sensory input system. All of a sudden their ability to process information becomes flooded and now they are in the mode of trying to restore order and balance in the environment while all we are seeing is the wonderful cute puppy we just want to hug and kiss. This mismatch causes a dog to scramble in an attempt at creating some calm in this situation to help bring their sensory system back to a baseline state. As mentioned in the last paragraph, dogs use their mouths to communicate with one another as a means to keep order non-erratic energy in a pack setting. When a dog feels we are not even close to recognizing how we are over stimulating them and causing discontent, they are left with no choice but to take matters into their own hands in a last ditch effort to get some control. This is acted out in the form of nipping at our hands, feet, and clothing. Since no dog in history can handle the undertaking of feeling responsible for the human conditions we share with them, they get even more frustrated as we encourage the mouthing and nipping to continue due to ineffective dog training techniques and from not understanding its actual root context. Deep down a dog realizes it is our job to be aware of all this to create a less stimulating environment preventatively so they would not have become overwhelmed with the responsibility of maintaining order in the first place…If we can achieve this, the biting will stop immediately.

Don’t Dogs Just Like to Chew?

Of course they do! Like I had mentioned, puppies and adult dogs do need an outlet for chewing. It is important though to help your dog approach chewing more like a pastime that they enjoy every now and then versus a necessity of life or seether for their anxiety which has a much deeper meaning to its basis. If your puppy is seeking out inanimate objects to chew on it is a good idea to supply them with appropriate chew toys, safe bones, and other items that can provide a healthy outlet for this behavior. You can also begin to correct the inappropriate chewing to encourage your dog to make the right decisions when it comes to chew items. Again, if your dog is directing their chewing towards you, replacing the action with a bone or toy to discourage them will be minimally effective since this type of chewing is based on the human dog relationship and not your puppy’s sore gums. It is at these times we must be proactive in our communication to demonstrate our abilities to provide balance and sensory modulation for our dogs before they potentially become overwhelmed in a way that triggers the nipping behavior.

Modulating Sensory Input:

Since we now understand that a dog or puppy who is willing to mouth on us does so with a clear intention and is not just randomly biting or teething for no reason. That intention is to restore order in the pack and the sensory processing systems of all its members. If we can simulate this intention as they understand another dog who is better at guiding the rest of the pack would we will instantly begin to address the root causality of why they have been nipping at us in the first place and naturally removes the impulse to do so completely. In other articles I describe techniques on how to use basic dog training commands to guide a dog’s mind to a place of focus and contentment. Applying these techniques helps organize their sensory system and removes the feelings of discontent that creates the impulse to bite to try to do it on their own and for us. In actuality we are just communicating the exact same thing they are trying to do towards us. What happens though when we do it is that a dog’s natural instinct to feel guided by and take direction from humans in a shared situation is tapped into. Giving a dog who previously had questions and insecurities driving their actions a clear job and feelings of sensory integration which removes the cause of the teething, chewing, and biting in a preventative way that establishes the foundation for harmonious relationship between dogs and humans.

You may be thinking to yourself, “What kind of weird Los Angeles dog trainer article is this… Potty Training Puppy?!?!” But to effectively housebreak or potty train your dog you must embrace the fact that you will have to analyze and put some consideration into your dog’s, uh, business…The reason being is that we must get to know our dog’s bathroom habits in order to create a consistent schedule and potty training puppy routine. I always tell my clients that any consistent effort or temporary sacrifices they put forth now, will pay great dividends in the future. In the case of housebreaking a puppy or adult dog, this effort is to pay close attention to the 1 & 2’s and create an at times more restricted indoor environment to help them learn how to “hold it” and only relieve themselves outdoors.

Why Wee Wee Pads are Unnecessary:

There are schools of thought who believe that giving a puppy pads or newspaper to go on then gradually bringing the pad or paper outside for them to make the association is the way to potty train a new puppy. The line of thinking behind this is that since a dog is most likely to find an isolated space to go on in an indoor environment, they will seek out the pad or paper (and they usually do) to go to the bathroom which will then eventually be brought outside when they get older to make the association. The reason puppies and dogs are more likely to have accidents on rugs and far away rooms such as basements is because a healthy dog does not want to soil its living space so it will find an off the beaten path place to do their business. To a dogs perception, even a wood floored room with a small rug can give them the impression that if they go to the bathroom on the rug, their constant wood floor living space will still allow them to keep their environment clean. The problem with all this, is that is gives them a mixed signal right from the start. It gives a dog two wrong impressions: 1) That going to the bathroom indoors is acceptable. Despite on an isolated surface or area. 2) Whenever you need to go potty, you are able to let it fly without any consciousness of being able to hold it for any duration of time. Although we aren’t expecting an 8 week old puppy to hold it for more than an hour or two for the first couple weeks. It is still better to take them outside to go to the bathroom on a schedule that demonstrates this outdoor time as their “window of opportunity” to do their business than to allow them to roam off and go to the bathroom whenever they feel indoors. When I first tell clients this, especially here in Los Angeles where many dogs live in high rises and owners lead very busy lives, many feel that this is being mean or punishing the dog or it is a major inconvenience to take them out frequently and a wee wee pad makes it much more convenient for them. Here’s the responses I give; As far as it being mean or punishment to expect a dog to hold it. Yes, if we did this to a person, it would get ugly real quick. However, dogs are able to develop both the ability to go on cue or command when brought to a designated potty area as well as learn how to, and pardon the following expression, make themselves empty to go for longer periods of time as they become older and develop their housebreaking abilities. In regards to the inconvenience of having to take their dog outside on a schedule more frequently than they wish and the use of a kennel, leash or small room I tell clients that it is a short term sacrifice that although inconveniencing initially, is still much easier than having to rush home to let your dog out because they cannot hold it for long periods of time or to be picking up poop in your home for the next 15-20 years.

Potty training puppy, I Don’t want my Dog to be in Jail…

Although it is an unreasonable argument, there are even some dog trainers who believe that the use of a kennel or crate training for housebreaking and general use is cruel or seen as punishment to a dog. This is one of the most clear ways people humanize dogs and out of deep care and compassion sometimes misinterpret things a dog enjoys as negative because we put our human priorities and point of view into their world and we get tricked into thinking they like/dislike everything we do in life.
Do not be mistaken though. If your dog is only placed in their crate when you leave or it is being used as punishment, they will of course make a negative association and begin to see it as aversive. Despite a dog’s natural denning instincts and tendencies to seek small spaces for physical and sensory security. This is why you must introduce your dog to their crate as early as possible and make it a happy, neutral type of place that they are placed in randomly for varying periods of time and are fed and given treats when they are inside of it from time to time. I tell dog owners if they are willing, they it is more than ok to bring the crate with you to various rooms you may be spending time in so they do not feel they are kept from their family while they are in their crate and you are able to enjoy having your dog around you while you create a more restricted space to develop their ability to stay clean indoors. With that said, let’s discuss how to use the crate or other small space such as a bathroom or leash confinement as a tool to teach our dogs how to hold it indoors and wait until the next time they are taken outside to go.

Leave No Options:

As I mentioned, for a dog or puppy to learn how to only go outdoors, they must see the time they are outside as their only chance until the next time. The amount of time that should elapse until the “next time” is approximately 1 hour of indoor time per month of age with a healthy adult dog being able to comfortably hold it for 8 hours without a problem if taught properly. For example, if your puppy is 3 months of age, they should be able to wait approximately 3-4 hours between bathroom breaks.
But with potty training puppy, how do we teach a dog to wait until the next time they are outside if they are willing to go to bathroom indoors whenever they feel? This is where the kennel or small space comes in handy as a tool to teach them how to exist inside in between bathroom visits while not allowing the opportunity to go indoors in a way that makes sense to their natural instincts. This does not mean that a dog has live in the crate when not outside to go potty. As I mentioned, it should be used as a tool whenever you feel your dog may have an accident at some point, but it is too soon to just take them back outside and make it too easy for them to learn any ability to eventually hold it indoors on their own without the need for a crate or confinement.

Food and Water Counts:

For many puppies, it is of benefit to give them their food and even water on a schedule so you may know when they have fully relieved themselves and are more likely to stay clean indoors without needing to put them in a small space to promote them to hold whatever may be remaining in their system.

Rewards:

When potty training puppy, treats and physical/verbal praise is important to inform your puppy they are going in the right space outdoors and you are proud of their efforts. Just make sure you time your reward while they are relieving themselves or immediately after if it causes a distraction.

Bells and Whistles:

There are many devices I have seen over the years besides wee wee pads that have been developed to accommodate a human interpretation of how we should potty training puppy versus what is actually far more easier and makes most sense to them based on their instincts and abilities as a species. One gimmicky product I am not particularly fond of is the little jingle bells they sell. The idea behind these is so a dog may signal its owner when it has to go by pawing at the bell. Hopefully if you have taken anything from this article you can clearly see how this does not teach a dog how to hold it in for any length of time. From a dog training and behavior perspective, by a dog feeling they have to command or tell a human any action they must perform, even for something as seemingly helpful as having to go potty. It can make certain dogs anxious by feeling they have to assume what other requests they may need to make to get what they need in life. Dogs should feel 100% satisfied that we can decide and provide everything they need in life small and large. I have seen countless dogs in my practice who suffer from debilitating anxiety or aggression that developed from simple and seemingly innocent actions that gave the dog the impression they were responsible for human actions.

Caught in the Act:

What do I do if I catch my dog going in the house or they have already had an accident?
If you have not established a consistent housebreaking routine when potty training puppy that is based in preventing the accidents by creating a structured indoor environment, then you should do nothing. By reacting, you could give your dog that it is a way to get attention (positive or negative is still attention). Furthermore, it is a good practice to remove your dog from the area the mess was made while cleaning it up so they cannot see you so they do not feel it creates any type of change of routine or dictation of your actions in any way.
Once you feel you have been preventing the majority of accidents by a good housebreaking process and your dog has developed a greater ability to hold it and go on cue when taken outdoors, you may then respond to a random accident by bring the actual mess outside on a paper towel to a spot they like to go and show them while telling them “good potty” or whatever praise you have established for going in the proper place. Many years ago I learned a harsher method that was more corrective in its response to accidents in the house by another dog trainer who was very knowledgeable but very old school. Short of rubbing their nose in it, he believed you should correct the dog before bringing them outside to show them the proper spot. The reality is most people are pretty irritated when they discover their dog has gone in the house and I have found that something as simple as putting them away for a few minutes before addressing the issue puts both of you in a better learning space than the older punishment based methods of motivating dogs to do what we want them to do.

The End Game:

What should we expect from our dog once we have taught them proper housebreaking skills? As your pup or adult dog continues to develop the ability to hold it longer and remain indoors clean without the use of a kennel, you should be able to leave them in any indoor space for up to 8 hours without a problem. They will actually begin to see your house or apartment as one giant kennel that they associate with never going potty inside while outdoors has become the consistent norm. This can happen in a matter of weeks for most puppies, or could take months for an adult dog who has learned an improper housebreaking regiment and needs to re-learn a completely new foundation to replace their initial, faulty associations. As with humans, there is a learning curve even for dogs. The key is remain consistent and neutral every single day! Do not veer of course because your dog has. By taking the exact same actions and preventative approach to housebreaking, your dog will learn only one way will work and by choosing that way they will be rewarded and feel better by keeping their indoor living environment clean.

Brett Endes, The Dog Savant is a professional dog trainer, an expert in potty training puppy and author with over 20 years experience specializing in problem behavior and puppy development counseling. The Dog Savant hosts a weekly podcast and is currently developing a web-based show to promote his message of canine behavior awareness. Brett takes a unique approach to dog behavior like no other trainer. His methods are based on psychology and principals of meditation along with a dog’s natural way of communication. Brett has been affectionately called, “The man with a dog’s brain”. He is available for private consulting of individual clients and speaking engagements in the greater Los Angeles area and worldwide. To learn more about Brett or for contact info please visit his website: dogtrainingLA.com and follow his twitter @thedogsavant